When people think of Russia and alcohol, they tend to think of vodka – and rightly so. Sir Richard Peto of Oxford University observes that the average Russian downs 20 liters of vodka per year – more than three times their British counterparts!
The problem of the over-consumption of vodka is so prevalent that it factors as a major risk in early death among Russians.
Fortunately, there are a growing number of Russians who are pushing back on this trend. Instead of seeking the oblivion promised by a bottle of vodka, they are seeking out the joys of tasting a world of wines instead – enhancing meals and sparking lively conversations with family and friends along the way.
One does not necessarily think of Russia as a wine consuming nation, and this is in large part due to its history – the only wine region of consequence in that vast nation is in the area of the recently-annexed Crimea.
Russian domestic wine is often considered to be of poor quality. Wine Revealed expert Denis Rudenko explains, “In Russia, a lot of wine is semi-sweet or fortified.”
Vadim Drobiz, head of a federal research center on the alcohol market adds that 85% of Russian wine costs the equivalent of $3.60 per bottle, and for what passes for good local wine comes in at $30 a bottle. The appeal of the import market is clear, especially given favorable exchange rates with the euro.
While Russians still consume less wine per capita than their counterparts in other European nations, it has become the world’s seventh-largest market for wine imports. Recent statistics value the Russian wine market at $693 million.
It seems like Denis Rudenko was in the right place at the right time. The Wine Revealed (link) crew had the chance to speak with this expert and sommelier while at the Wine Master Class in Slovenia this past summer.
It seems improbable, but Rudenko gives credit for his interest in wine to his mother-in-law, who was always serving wines at meals. She was a bit of a wine buff herself, and has a knack for solid choices and good pairings. He became interested in the wines, and discovered that he could taste different qualities in them.
Over time, he began to notice differences between varieties, regions, and countries. He began to note his impressions and observations on a wine blog he later created. Before long, the blog went viral among Russians, and to his surprise, people were interested in what he had to say about wines.
His blog is the Daily Wine Telegraph and includes a tasting calendar, wine facts, articles, and videos. Current postings take a look at Vinho Verde wines of Portugal, fielding a reader’s question about why wines are not pasteurized, as well as taking a look at non-alcoholic wines.
Rudenko has clearly tapped into something. Russians who had come up in the cold war era were more cosmopolitan and interested in the outside world, and that included a taste for the wines of the world.
He has grown beyond just being a blogger, and is now a sommelier, teacher at a sommelier, and founder and owner of the largest wine tasting club in Russia for amateurs, Tasting Club 750ml.
Among his membership include enthusiasts who have gone on to sommelier school or become winemakers themselves. The club mostly revolves around themed events such as Chilean wines, or Zinfandels.
Europe is an obvious choice for Russians interested in wines. Many wines come in from former Soviet satellites, such as the Balkan states, Georgia, and Armenia. More unlikely sources are making a good showing, such as China and India.
Recently, Rudenko organized a wine tasting in which representatives from the Rioja region in Spain offered tastings in an event that took place in a luxury commercial center near Red Square.
The Rioja Denominación de Origen Calificada Consortium noted that, “Denis Rudenko dug deep into the subject of the grand Rioja whites, a theme which captured the attention of the attendees who showed a special interest to learn more about indigenous varieties overall, and who were captivated by the Tempranillo blanco.”
Rudenko wants people to fall in love with wine, “I want to share my passion to wine. Cause if you have a passion to any subject, you will be educated, you will be very smart and knowledgeable about this area of knowledge.. I’m trying to share my passion.”
He notes that the unpredictability of wine is one of the most fascinating aspects to him, “Wine is very interesting thing… if you’re trying to make any potion from any other fruit… the only aroma you’re going to have in this wine is the primary aroma of fruit… but not with the grape. Grape wine never smells like a grape. It smells like anything else… It’s a mystery. Cause you never know what you’re going to have in a new glass, in a new bottle.”
The wine market in Russia is only predicted to continue to grow. Current exchange rates mean that many imports are more affordable than local wines, further fueling the fervor among Russians to explore the world through a glass of wine. Denis Rudenko is more than happy to go along for the ride!